Tuesday, February 05, 2008

Carnavales Series, Part 4: My Carnival

So, amidst all the celebration, I had to do something. Last year I just stayed around the city and while relaxing, five days in a city that has been completly shut down was not exactly just a day in the field. It was boring as all get out! So I had to do something this year.

I made plans, and oh there were good. The long weekend started out with a crazy fishing trip. We left a little late and missed all the fish! However, we did go boating on the lake that was dammed up to make the canal, and it was surreal to be fishing, look up and see huge container ships pass by. We spent the whole day fishing with no avail and fruitlessly. After drinking quite a few beers on the boat, rowing, eating, waiting, waiting and no biting, we decided to go (row) back to shore. Upon arriving and having been laughed at by all the accomplished fishermen of the village, the owner took pity on us and gave us a few fish to take with us. Then one of the local fisherman said he would give us more fish if we simply took him to buy some beer at the local store (about a five mile ride). So more fish was added to the bounty. Then after taking the fisherman to the store and having made a new friend, he decided that we were cool enough to offer us a ride on his speed boat. We all got on, and he drove us right out into the canal, no more than about 20 feet from a huge container ship that was passing through. We were in the freaking canal, without permission! It was great.

Sunday night brought a fish fry at Milton's house, and we enjoyed all the fish we had "caught". This was supposed to happen Saturday night but we were all so tired and sun drenched that no one of was awake enough for a fish fry. And of course, there was the preferred carnaval beverage, beer. Milton cooked rice with guandú, fish and salad. Excellent.

Monday brought about the beginning of the tour of Panama. We left Panama early in the morning so that we could get to our first stop, the beach, before it got too crowded. After lathering up, Milton, Carissa and I (the crew) dove in and enjoyed the crystal waters for about an hour. We also spent time just hanging out on the beach and relaxing. At about 12:00, we left for stop number 2, Penenomé, a city about two hours from the city. Since Penenomé is one of the first cities that is considered the "interior", it also has some of the biggest parties for Carnavales. It is also where all the really ghetto people (and when I say ghetto, I mean fights that the cops have to break up ghetto) go because it is the only trip they can afford. So the combination of large parties with large quantities of alcohol, a little more than questionable people-age, it only lead to the inevitable. I was pick pocketed in the culecos. But how? Let me explain the culecos: you know those big gas tankers that transport our life supply, oil, across the country? Well, in Carnavales in Panama during the day, those are filled with water, and then sprayed upon hundred of scorched people. Sound like fun? Its basically like walking past a open fire hydrant. But, with the loud music, and the quantity of alcohol aforementioned, yes it is fun! But take at look at this video and you will understand how I got pick pocketed:



But, we totally made up for it. My friend Milton, who works for a TV show called "The Peel" worked his magic and got Carissa and I on the top of one of the culecos! We actually got to spray the water and such. It was great. More than a little wet and our spirits soaring as high as the water beams we were spraying, we loaded the car and headed for destination 3.

Milton's family lives in a small town in the interior of the country called Parita. Having never been to Los Santos (often considered the heart of Panamanian Culture), I really didnt know what to expect. I assumed it was just like the city and such. Pulling into the city was like stepping back in time 400 years, as if Panama has just been colonized. My mouth hit the floor at all the historic houses and you can imagine my heart stopping when we pull into the main plaza of the city, park, and Milton tells us that this is where his family lives: ON THE CITY PLAZA! IN A HOUSE THAT IS 200 YEARS OLD! (For those of you who didn't take Spanish Colonial History, all Colonial cities follow the same basic design: the houses in the plaza were only for the richest of the town and those most important: Milton's great grandfather was one of the mayors of the city.) After all the tours, Carissa and I were just speechless at the history we were living among. I finally understood why people from the interior are so proud of their upbringing! We met alot of Miltons aunts and uncles and cousins, and got ready for the big parade!

After being told that the queens wouldn't make their appearance until at least 11, we decided to go to where there might be some action. Back in the car again and this time we drove about 20 minutes to the capital of the province of Herrera, Chitré. There we ate some food, meet some famous TV stars and enjoy the "tunas" that were playing and getting ready for the big parades. The highlight of Chitré was the church and the food! I think that was the best potatoe salad I have ever eaten!

That night, after getting a little lost and seeing the hometown of Samy and Sandra (two really famous PanamanianTypical Music singers), we made our way back to Parita for the queens' parade. At 11:30, still no queens. I thought that this would be the epitome of the "panamanian hour" where you can show up up to an hour late and still be on time. We fought for a while to stay awake to see the queens, but we couldnt make it. Resigned to the sleep, I went to bed disapointed that I wouldn't see the queen.

Oh no. They won't let you not see her. At about 12:15 the house sounded like it was going to blow up with all the fire works they were setting off in the plaza. The queen had arrived. We all went a watched, listened to the "tuna", danced a little, and watched the queen go by on her float! Then it was finally time for bed.

Last but not least, Tuesday we woke up and went to the house that Milton's family is building completely of clay...their own adobe house! It was huge and I was so impressed. There we met Chicho, the man who is helping the family build the house, he invited us of for Palm Tree Wine, gave us about all the fresh beans, tomates and yams that we could handle, and talked to us with his rather peculiar accent (Even after two years of being in Panama, it was difficult for me to understand him).

Then it was back to Parita to spend the day "carnavaleando". There was a huge parade where Calle Abajo and Calle Arriba got into a verbal war with each other, my hair turned black becuase of all the ash falling from the fireworks, all while the culecos kept pumping water to all those sun scorched Panamanians! Finally, after a quick shower and a change of clothes, it was back in the car for the long trip back home. We caught horrible traffic, and a trip that should have taken three hours took 7. OH well, thats life getting back to normal after carnavales.

So, thats a rather long story about my carnavales! It was so much fun. To see pictures, click here.

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